4Oct

A Daily Dose of Truffles

I lost my voice in Texas two months ago. Within 24 hours of stepping out of DFW International into my sister’s arms, my laugh had developed a smoky rasp. Another day, and I was passing myself off as Keith Richards on the phone. By Day 5, I could only do a bullfrog’s rendition of a whisper, and I had to eat throat lozenges like M&Ms for the next few days in order to [audibly] deliver the toast at my sister’s wedding. It was awesome. Between grown-up slumber parties with my sister, long drives with my cousin, dinners out with friends, shopping marathons with my mom, and game nights with my brothers, I was in good conversational company for about 21 hours a day. (Related: Sleep, schmeep.)

This trip back to my hometown marked the first time I’ve really gotten to know many* of my siblings as adults, and every one of the eleven days I spent with them was a spadeful of sand unburying treasure. My voice box was simply the conduit for years’ and years’ worth of conversations delayed by age gaps, stage-of-life gaps, and geographical gaps. Goodnights took two hours and a shared tub of ice cream to finish saying.

* There are eight of us, plus assorted spouses, kids (mine), and dogs (everybody else’s). 

And then there were the sales clerks—women with ready Texas smiles, men with hilarious anecdotes at the ready—and I talked with all of them. I chatted with the gas station attendant, the intern behind the front desk at the Y, the mom whose toddler ran over my foot with a tricycle. It was such a thrill to be speaking American English, to be using terms like “the Y” and “fixin’ to.” I wondered if they could tell that I was from those parts (which I am) or if I came across as a foreign species visiting from distant lands (which is equally true). I reserved my secret life in Italy for my family, who I’m sure loved having me point out a new cultural difference every five minutes. (“Whoa, I’d forgotten that you can actually pay at the pump in the U.S.! LOL. Things are so different where I live, haha. Oh, and have I ever told you about speedometers in Italy…?”)

Returning to that secret expat life, however, I found my throat blocked by a lump the size of the jalapeños on my honky-tonk nachos. I’d never really experienced homesickness before, so I couldn’t be sure that’s what it was. It was something, though, and that something propelled me to the corner of our house farthest from the front door. I sent Dan to the store for milk. I let the phone ring itself hoarse. I lay in bed with my mind ping-ponging between jetlag and insomnia and my mouth tightly closed.

It’s just so hard here. Can I say that? Can I tell you honestly that this beautiful life I’ve been given with its ancient cathedrals and its bowls of pasta and these two little bilingual daughters traipsing across castle grounds on a Saturday morning can be too heavy for me sometimes?

I feel like an ingrate for it, but at least I can be an honest ingrate. Here it is: Every interaction in Italy, no matter how small, requires more than I ever feel comfortable offering up. An acceptance of lost dignity is the main prerequisite, and I cannot think of a sensation more exactly opposite of the thrill I felt speaking Texan among Texans. Any time I open my mouth here, I advertise the fact that I am a foreigner (aptly, the term is “stranger” in Italian), and even though the person I’m speaking to has already seen my freckles and knows I am not a local, speaking aloud feels like zipping up a sore thumb costume and launching into a set of jumping jacks on the street corner.

So, there is the psychological effort of un-belonging, and then there is the mental effort of the language itself. The words still come to me slowly, like doddering old men reluctant to leave their rooms, and the worst part is and always shall be choosing the correct subject-verb endings to accessorize the things. Italian is a language that must be spoken with confidence and spice, completely unlike the gently sloshing Spanish I studied growing up, and I regularly trip over my false teeth trying to infuse my words with Mediterranean spirit.

In fairness to my Italian friends, I need to make clear that no one ever disparages me for speaking imperfectly. All of this drama takes place within the confines of my own head. Still, my head is a rather significant part of my life, so “ciao” is never just “ciao” for me; it’s emotional and mental strain followed by a very special like-it-or-not brand of humility.

And so my post-Texas self clammed up for a while, the difficulty of interaction here contrasting too sharply against all my fresh memories of hometown and kin. I wanted to get right back on an airplane to the States and savor the easy cascade of words for another few weeks. My goodness, but I wanted to greet a friend without having to button up my courage first. I found myself grieving, honest-to-goodness grieving, over this gorgeous adventure of an expat life.

I know the world’s tiniest violin is playing right now in mock sympathy for my plight (“Privileged Woman Chooses Fairytale Life, Whines That It Is Hard”), but this is real life, compliments of the real brain in my real head, and I believe that we allow grace to exhale pure ambient relief around us when we’re real with each other. Plus, I found a way out of my clamshell, and I wanted to share it with you.

I was listening to the audiobook version of Eat, Pray, Love while running a few weeks ago, and though I had previously read the book and watched the film (and re-read and re-watched and then re-re-watched if we’re going for full disclosure here; I do love a good spiritual/travel/gelato-themed memoir), and though I thought all of the relevant parts had already made their impressions on me, something new jumped out:

“Every word was a singing sparrow, a magic trick, a truffle for me… The words made me laugh in delight.”

Elizabeth Gilbert is, of course, referring to Italian, and once living in Rome, she actually drops out of language school so she can have more time to enjoy trying her vocabulary out on shopkeepers, seat mates on trains, postal clerks, soccer fans… basically everyone I most dread having to speak to when I go out.

My mind immediately drifted away from the book, and between the usual mental soliloquies that take over while I’m running (“Ow.” “Hate. “Why.” etc.), I tried to wrap my mind around the concept of language learning as delight. It was hard at first. I’ve lived here for six years now, and my perspectives have become worn to the point of shabbiness with daily use. There is nothing particularly glamorous about daily life, after all. Take out the trash, walk the girls to school, do a few linguistic slapstick routines while saying hi to the other parents. This is no Julia Roberts flick.

But consciously relishing each word as it leaves my mouth is something I can do without the least disruption to my routine. I don’t have to do anything different, in fact, except remember to enjoy my free daily language practice. My daily dose of truffles. It’s incredible how something as insubstantial as the concept of delight can reshape the mind’s topography, turn canyons into playgrounds, turn long afternoons at the pediatric allergy clinic into extended word games. It’s changing so much for me, not necessarily for the easier but certainly for the happier. I even picked up my old grammar book the other day and read a few verb conjugations out loud just to feel them melt on my tongue. Voglio, vuoi, vuole, vogliamo, volete, vogliono. Like chocolates, like throat lozenges, cures for a lost voice.

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5 comments

  1. This, every word! I was in tears over Swahili pronouns last night. I know you write for your soul and not compliments in the comment section, but I am completely serious that your words are truffles and chocolate to me!

  2. I have always thought you were brave. I have a hard time imagining living anywhere but here where the autumn always comes after the heat of the summer, and I always wish it were warmer and sunnier, but I love it just the same. I can’t remember a time when I was without support…family…friends…even students and strangers! I know what to expect. And the language has always boggled my mind. I get homesick when I visit my parents in California. Where they speak English. And (hello!) I am visiting my PARENTS. I have admired you for a long time because you make it seem easy, and you come across as if you fit there with the castles and the princesses. It is nice to know that I am not abnormal, that what I imagined to be hard, is HARD.

    All that said, I love the truffles everyday attitude! I say to myself when I notice my attitude failing, “Attitude is everything, pick a good one!” And I really do try to do that, I fail sometimes, but I can usually overcome the contrary.

    I also loved hearing about your trip to Texas. I am so glad you had a fun time. And I am so glad you got to languish in your native speak. You will have to visit again, just to talk! I love your writing Bethany! It is a treat every time you write!

  3. Bethany – This post made me so happy. So wonderful that your visit home was so good. It is a very interesting thing to get to know your siblings as adults. Sometimes I feel as if I’m discovering treasures I never knew were sitting right in front of me. Oh and about cultural adjustment – I’ve “merely” moved across the country and I still feel a little bit of cultural homesickness after my Texas visits, and every. single. visit. I forget how long it takes me to readjust to life back at my “new” home.

    Anyway – I loved your post and wanted you to know that I continue to love reading your blog. — Laura

  4. That quote from the book really struck a chord for me as well – how she absolutely relished speaking the language. It is a beautiful language, each word pronounced, it seems, with your whole mouth: lips, tongue, teeth – everything. Like experiencing a food so delicious, you savor it all you can.

  5. Kelly #1 – Thank you so much for getting me (and comparing my writing to chocolate!!). I can’t even imagine trying to tackle Swahili. “Forza e coraggio”, as the Italians say — Strength and courage, to you, from me.

    Megsie – Oh my. I know now that I haven’t written nearly enough about my experience living in Italy, because easy it ain’t. I do want to keep my blog from being a ranting ground, but there are times… 🙂 I love the idea of being rooted in a place the way you are, and I would love love love to come experience it with you for a few days (you know, next time I’m in the neighborhood).

    Laura – I wonder sometimes if Texas doesn’t qualify as a country of its own. (I think diehard Texans would agree with me on this one.) I moved across the U.S. before making the bigger move across the ocean, and it was good practice for me to get used to an entirely different culture (not-Texas) before getting used to an entirely different country (Italy). I’m with you on the cultural homesickness front. Know that you’re always welcome to use Texas slang on here, for nostalgia’s sake. 🙂

    Kelly #2 – Not just your whole mouth either but your whole body! Hand gestures are a part of the Italian language that I’m still getting acquainted with, but I’ve grown to love that whole-self way that Italians express themselves. There is definitely savoring involved.

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