Tag: Breathing

7Oct

Highland Fling – Part 2

(Part 1)

I feel like the next part of this tale doesn’t exactly warrant telling, but it was a near-spiritual experience for me, so… I’ll try to make it quick. On our way out of Cambridge to the wilds of northern England, we stopped by a Tesco Extra. Tesco, I was already familiar with from our grocery trips in Ireland. The Extra, however, was new to me; it wasn’t until I was standing in the store’s entryway with my jaw somewhere under the cart that I realized it stood for Everything That Can Be Sold Inside a Building And Then Some. Over the past three years, I’ve grown accustomed to small specialized stores that don’t worry themselves unnecessarily with options. I don’t mind the Italian way of shopping, really; once you learn where to go, when, and for what, it’s a simple process. But stepping into that multi-story metropolis with its book store and baking aisles (multiple!!) and 24-hour pharmacy made me want simultaneously to cry and to start groping the merchandise. I went with the latter. It took us an hour to get the four grocery items on our list and twenty not on our list (we’re lucky your dad forbade me from so much as peeking into the baking section), and back in the car, you girls fell promptly to sleep.

Magellan's seen plenty of naptimes by now If I had not felt the need to ask your dad important questions like, “Did you see the blueberry muffins, did you? The big ones? With blueberries in them? And individual packaging? Next to that other brand of blueberry muffins? Weren’t they beautiful?” steadily for the next three hours, I would have passed out too.

Had we realized that Cambridge would be our last brush with civilization for almost a week, we could have spent our time at Tesco stocking up on salt pork and hardtack, but we were too excited about hitting the trail… and I do mean “trail” literally. Our next stop was a section of Hadrian’s Wall with little around besides wind-whipped skies and a vague path shoeprinted into the grass. That is our absolute favorite kind of place to end up—enough remaining history to fuel our imaginations and enough nature to let us off our leashes. You girls didn’t need instructions. While your dad and I goofed off in Milecastle 42 pretending to be the ancient Roman IRS faced with unruly Scotsmen, you skipped off together toward the rolling green.

Girls on a missionNot even Tesco Extra tempts me to live in the UK as strongly as this scene does.

You were the height of adorable, holding hands and racing away on your own little adventure. Just before you left earshot, your dad and I saw you point to the obviously bovine creatures in the distance and exclaim, “What could those be? Cows? Horses? Wolves? We don’t know!” So adorable. Your dad and I were still chuckling about it when we realized you girls were much faster than we gave you credit for… and that you had gotten alarmingly close to the cows/horses/wolves/wedon’tknow while we were preoccupied with your adorableness. Parents of the year! We caught up just as you, Natalie, were remarking, “Yep, they’re cows.” It would have been hard not to identify them, seeing as how several had planted themselves squarely in your path.

Attack of the cows 1 - Copia “Moove it, bipedals; this is our turf.”

The black cow in front had a decidedly unfriendly gleam in her eyes. The other cows shifted their hooves, glanced at her, and muttered to each other in moo, but the black one stood as rigidly as a block of ice freezing us with her glare. Apparently, we didn’t take the hint. With no warning (other than the daggers shooting from her eyes, of course), she sounded the charge. Her posse began advancing on us. We began backing away. They stepped up the pace. We began to run. A few seconds later, we looked back to discover that cows are more agile creatures than we knew. They were galloping full-throttle at our backs, and the black one may or may not have been shooting flames from her muzzle. We scooped up you girls and bolted for the far end of the field, shrieking with laughter. There was something absurdly funny about escaping from a bovine lynch mob, and once we made it through the safety gate, we collapsed more from the hilarity of it all than from exhaustion. Well, three of us did. You, Natalie, surprised us by bursting into tears. “I’m scared of the cows,” you cried. “What did they want?” Your dad quickly tried to comfort you. “It’s okay, honey; the cows probably just wanted to eat.” Your cry immediately grew into a full-fledged wail. “THEY WANTED TO EAT MEEEEEEEEEEE?”

Survivors! Parents of the year!

Plenty of hugs (and a few parental giggling fits) later, we headed back to the campground. This one didn’t have a playground, but what it lacked in plastic slides it made up for in wildlife. We socialized with the resident puppies, made fascinating discoveries about chicken’s sense of hygiene (as in, they don’t have one), and followed a rather important looking mallard giving his two ducktweens a tour of the grounds. Your favorite part, though, was the pond. Safe in a circle of bullrushes, a mama duck clucked soft goodnights to each of her dozen babies, caressed their fluffy heads, and tucked them underneath her feathers for the night. You watched spellbound, even as the daddy duck hissed ineffectual curses in our direction, and other campers gathered around to watch you. By the way, there’s something truly special about the little communities that form between people at campgrounds, even if it’s only during an overnight stay. Sleeping outdoors enhances one’s capacity for wonder, and our campground acquaintances tend to notice small joys—puddles ripe for splashing, pink-tinged clouds, little faces lit up over ducklings’ bedtime rituals. Just by being yourselves, you inspired joy and camaraderie… and it was perfectly natural for us to stay long past checkout time the next morning so you could fly kites with the girl-next-tent, Evi, while your dad and I swapped funny travel stories with her parents. It’s just what you do when small joys win over boring old farts like standoffishness and punctuality.

The kite flyer 2 This is the kind of thing that makes souls breathe deep.
Well, this and being attacked by ravenous cows.

~~~

On to Part 3…

18Aug

Dizzy Ankles

It’s after 10 p.m. The girls are tucked away to dream about tooth fairies and strawberry milkshakes, and Dan is out with a friend. I’ve claimed the night as my writing space and am sitting crosslegged on our balcony letting the full weight of star-studded infinity muddle my brain. I loved doing this as a child, gazing into space until the dizzy wonder of it dangled me by my ankles.

This summer has been nothing like I expected. Remember my worry over failing to plan enough activities? This is the part where I get back into a yoga routine just so I can gain enough flexibility to kick myself upside the head. If you have a weak heart or a judgment complex, please don’t read the following sentence: I haven’t taken the girls to our neighborhood park once this summer. Not a single time. And that was the one activity I didn’t plan as we would already be going every day, duh.  What I failed to factor into my research on libraries and water parks was that our family thrives on spontaneity. Since returning from Scotland, we have gone on three more trips, hosted visitors twice, had seven groups over for dinner, and gone on a variety of social outings, none of which came with much advance notice. Combined with the surprising fullness of daily life with the girls, I haven’t had enough downtime to remember I’m supposed to be combating boredom.

To throw another little twist in the mix, summer abruptly went from HOT, HOT, MUST DUNK HEAD IN A VAT OF PARTIALLY MELTED POPSICLES NOW to breezy and Septemberly a couple of weeks ago, and all the pool playdates I had imagined were relegated to the same dusty corner as the fans. If you live in the Southwest, please don’t read the following sentence: I am wearing a sweatshirt right now. The mind, it boggles.

I feel I should assure you all that I have been working on my recap from our Scotland trip, but it has quite the ego and has started fancying itself to be a novel. I will be sure to share once I wrangle it into submission. Not tonight though. It’s time to turn off my computer, look into the sky, and let the breezy impulses of our summer spiral into the vast universe until I am weightless.

2Aug

Dragonfly Days


For the record, I have no idea how any parent accomplishes any kind of work in the summer.

I remember this feeling from the first few months after Sophie joined our family—I didn’t necessarily have more to do, but the time in which to do it was suddenly occupied by a needy, albeit adorable, little person. We’re out of milk-smitten newborns around here, but the children of the house still have a way of curling my time around their pinkie fingers and then using it as a jump rope over which one of them will invariably fall and blame her sister who will protest and up the volume ante until both girls are trading reproach at a decibel generally reserved for banshees.

If our livelihood depended on it (and I’m a little embarrassed that it doesn’t), I’m sure I could find hours in these dragonfly days for writing. However, that would require me to give up a thing or two—

chatting each evening with our balcony garden… coaxing the strawberries to climb, pinching off fragrant basil blooms, harvesting nut brown coriander, selecting fresh chilis and the brightest daisies for our dinner table… pruning, watering, and befriending each homespun leaf—

Second balcony strawberry

busting out the pens, paper, and bookworm stickers after breakfast to a chorus of cheers and teaching the girls about the alchemy of letters into words… singing [rather terribly] about short vowel sounds, cheering for silent “e,” and watching a new universe unfold in Natalie’s star struck eyes—

So excited to learn how to write

maintaining my status as worthy foe to the army of ants living under the doorframe by keeping the place crumb-free, popsicle-puddle-free, and ever ready for guests… being able to invite friends over on a whim for board games and cold drinks, pasta salad and conversation into the night… sustaining the peaceful and social home that makes our family thrive—

Mojito

riding the tide of childhood with a pair of sunblown girls… taking them camping and swimming and playground hopping, settling onto the floor with them to work puzzles and Perler beads, helping them [help me] whip up desserts and steep iced tea, reading books by the armful, sampling gelato, lazing around in hammocks—

Girls in a hammock

catching up with family, editing photographic evidence of our adventures, reminding my fingers how to dance on piano keys, putting together birthday gifts for loved ones, nibbling the haze-ripened moon with honey and wine, attending to the precious minutiae of motherhood…

Come September, we’ll be on to a new phase of life, a both-girls-in-school kind of phase. And while I’m looking forward to the free time with a hungry glee, it also makes my throat prick against the back of my eyes until I can’t see quite straight. Sorry, writing (and reading and budgeting and blog-catch-upping), but you’ll have to wait. I’m busy accomplishing summertime with my two darling banshees.

2Jul

Carried Away

After a few hours of hiking with the girls along a “whisky-coloured” river after a peaceful night of sleep on the West Highland grass after a day of escaping tempests and exploring castles after an awestruck and shivery experience in the wilderness of the Isle of Skye after wanderings through William Wallace’s lands after fierce opposition at Hadrian’s Wall after Cambridge’s universities and a ferry to Dover and Luxembourgish playgrounds and Swiss tunnels and many, many hours in the car… (deep breath)… I’m taking a few moments to reacquaint myself with my computer at a pint-sized café. The first thing I did was look up the date.

It is beyond wonderful to be here, so thoroughly swept up by the current of adventure that time and responsibilities blur into the distant past. (Considering the sun is up until midnight, our schedule is completely muddled, but I rather like it that way.)  I’ll regale you with the stories after returning home and washing 40,000 loads of muddy, midge-infested laundry, but right now—at least as I see it—my job is to get as carried away as I possibly can.

7May

Drop It Like It’s Bach

I was never one of those girls who lived on paper towels dipped in grape juice, fell asleep doing the splits, and dreamed of Juliard, but ballet was still a big part of my formative years. It was the one form of exercise that my tightly-strung limbs could manage with any degree of competence. I was hopeless at jumping rope. Running knotted my sides with pain. Any sport involving a ball promised certain embarrassment; I had even been known to hit onlookers in the face with foosballs. But the precision of ballet meshed with my Bach-infused brain—Plié, two, three, four, and up, six, seven, eight, relevé, two, three, four, and down, six, seven, eight. When I took my place at the barre, the carefully measured beat inside my chest fell into step beside the practice music, and my life took on a certain… not meaning, exactly, but familiarity.

It was when a hip-hop teacher choreographed one of our performances that I learned beat and rhythm were not the same thing.

“Try slouching,” the teacher instructed me. “Well yes, technically it’s similar to hunching over, but you need to relax. Try bouncing a little. Swing your arms some. Maybe bend your knees? Just try to loosen up, please, so you can move with the music.”

I succeeded in looking as hip as a Puritan schoolmarm with epilepsy.

All this to say that rhythm is not a virtue I inherited. I’ve learned a lot about loosening up since my ballerina days, but simple yoga breathing took me months to master, and no one is going to be hiring me for a Snoop Dogg music video anytime soon. Even more regrettably (though failing to capture Snoop’s attention is tragic), my rhythm deficiency seems to apply to the grand scheme of life. Despite plenty of years to settle into this existence of mine, I have yet to find my daily groove. I still approach my schedule awkward and stiff-jointed with no carefree assurance that I’m moving in the right direction, no flexibility to roll with the changes that pulse in the bassline.

What guides me now, as always, is the plodding beat under my sternum: Status quo, two, three, four, and caution, six, seven, eight, now practicality, two, three, four, and misgiving, six, seven, eight. (Yes, I’m a blast to have at parties.) But what I want is to be swept away in a rip tide of driving beats and compelling sounds. I wish I could move freely through my days, trusting in the power of joy and unconstrained movement to produce a full life, a wildly good life. I would love oh-so-very much to stop studying every minute as the next note in a sonata and just… groove.

This is where I am this spring, taking stock of my life and shaking my head. Try slouching, I tell myself. Except this time, relax. Bounce a little. Swing your arms. Bend your knees. And for heaven’s sake, learn how to drop it like it’s hot before you actually turn into a Puritan schoolmarm.

14Apr

Defined by Wonder

Out of all religious celebrations, my least favorite is Easter. I’d rather not get into reasons why, though lacy short sleeved dresses on the coldest Sundays in Texas history have a minor role. (Seriously, the Texan weather gods must spend three quarters of the year siphoning away stray breezes to be released all together the moment flimsy Easter dresses emerge.) Our church here in Italy does not officially celebrate Easter, but nonetheless, I prefer to distance myself from institutions for the weekend. Campgrounds work nicely. Campgrounds in Sorrento work very nicely.

Shoreline - Sunday morning 1

Our experience this year was different from last year’s in that we didn’t drive the entire coastline, stumble into any creepy processionals, or need the sunscreen, but the defining factor of our trip was still wonder. The wonder of waking up to Mount Vesuvius drifting above the bay on a floe of sky-blue mist…   the wonder of the girls running themselves giddy beneath succulent orange trees… the wonder of following an unknown path down a cliff face to the water’s edge where cats napped on volcanic remnants and boulders presented themselves for the jumping… above all, the wonder of putting our busy life on hold while we shacked up with beauty for the weekend.

Oranges in bloom

Thanks to a fitful forecast, we put our Capri plans on hold and had the kind of see-where-our-feet-take-us day we love so much. The first place our feet took us was… back inside the tent to play Curious George Uno, sneak a few chocolate eggs, and wait out a cloudburst. Admittedly, it wasn’t the worst way to spend Easter morning, but we were still glad to see the sky take its emotional issues elsewhere. After all, there were pigeons to chase! Merry-go-rounds to conquer! Strawberry gelato to dribble deliciously onto our mother’s jeans! We wound our way through the Sorrento shopping district scoping out lemons for Operation Limoncello 2010 and followed an inkling down the coast to pretend stray cats were panthers and ogle the waves, still turquoise beneath their cloud cover. Once little legs tired out, we drove down the block to Positano, so brim-full of color and bustle that we never had a chance to miss our derailed Capri trip.

Positano 2

The next day brought with it an impromptu detour to the excavation site of Pompeii. I’m glad I had the chance to be properly impressed by Herculaneum last year because Pompeii so thoroughly surpassed all previous experiences with ruins. I mean, there are ruins, and there are RUINS. Acres upon acres of stepping-stone streets, villas, tombs, bars, theaters, brothels, temples, shopping malls, gardens, and what my girls claimed as their own personal “beautiful castles.” It felt both heavy and oddly exhilarating to poke around a city where people lived 2,000 years ago. No denying that Vesuvius’s famous eruption was tragic, but getting to peek into an ancient culture without the distraction of progress felt like a gift—a head-warping, perspective-zapping, imagination-thrilling sort of gift to carry home on tired feet.

Little Miss Natalie

I know I’m not scoring points with the Spanish Inquisition here, but God is more real to me outdoors with the girls chasing butterflies or skipping over ancient crosswalks than in a meeting hall where we’re trying to make them behave like doorstops. Fresh air has a big impact on our spiritual lives, I think. Incidentally, the God we pitched our tent with—the one painting gold across the horizon and setting magpies in flight and coaxing wild poppies into the open—is the one that makes me feel religious celebrations have merit after all… though, if I’m going to be honest, I’d still take a camping trip on the Amalfi Coast, breathing in the fragrance of citrus trees and drinking up wonder, over lacy Easter dresses any day.

1Feb

Gelato Before Breakfast

When my alarm rocks me awake, the horizon is just beginning to bloom. The valley outside our bedroom window sparkles under the lightest dusting of powdered sugar, a gift from the sweet-toothed godmother of 3 a.m. Mount Subasio’s snowcap rounds out the purple sky. It is morning.

The horizon’s blush deepens, silhouetting familiar bell towers against a backdrop of vivid rose, and then pales as the sun makes her debut. One, then two, then fifty stufe curl feather-white smoke into a sky the color of lemon gelato. Hints of blue in the distance whisper of our Apennine guardians. This is home.

In a few minutes, I will finish my cappuccino. I will button Natalie up in her grembiule for school and give the house its morning airing (though I might avoid draping all our bedding out the windows as our neighbors are prone to do). The olive grove behind our house will rustle off its snow as the day warms marigold, and the local guild of songbirds will get to socializing. A typical day will be in full swing before I know it.

But at least for the moment, I do know it. Looking out over the cypresses of a 2500-year old city and in over the nuances of our Italian life, I am humbled. The expat experience is often challenging (if not downright frustrating) and requires a heaping supply of flexibility (if not insanity)… but it is the kind of long-term adventure that fills our hearts, remodels them for greater capacity, and fills them again. And at least for the moment, this sunrise—like the day it colors in, like the Etruscan stones gleaming from the next hilltop, like the adventure we wake up to every morning—is an immeasurable gift.

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