Tag: Italy

11Feb

Globe Trotters

I’m decompressing from our weekend trip to Milan in the scrumptious glow of a strawberry IKEA candle and trying to remember where I packed my words. Or perhaps I left them behind? As always, I’m wading through the Twilight Zone until all our suitcases are empty. (On that note, grumph.) I know there’s significance in venturing out our front door. I know there’s a vast, luminous value in our impromptu travels, small children and spirits of adventure in tow, and once I’m over car lag, I’ll be able to fully appreciate these steps we take to live in 3-D.

{Gah. Also, Agh. I’ve been trying to finish this for hours, but I might as well be typing on a dinner plate. Did I lock my brain in the trunk? Also, GAH.}

The highlight of my trip was more a sensation than an event, though it was disguised as individually-wrapped moments throughout the weekend. Exploring castle ruins with Natalie–peeking into stone coffins, taunting rabid cats, moat-diving, and running in traditional medieval circles–and seeing her lit up with discovery… Wading through rivers of Carnevale confetti while more was tossed into our hair by short, giggling Power Rangers… Wandering through a National Geographic photo exhibit and suddenly starving for each exotic, breathtaking piece of the earth I’ve never seen…

All the pieces came together on the drive home when I asked Dan what was on his list, his do-before-dying-or-turning-thirty-whichever-comes-first list. He immediately said “travel,” and I couldn’t help smiling. That’s my list too, even above a hot air balloon ride.* We daydreamed the car ride away, talking about Egypt and Kenya, Nepal and Japan and Thailand, Jamaica and Brazil. Surfing in Indonesia, snowboarding the Andes. Losing minor limbs to Amazonian piranhas.

It’s one of the things that pulled me inextricably into love with Dan, our shared wanderlust. It’s why we live in Italy. It’s why we will have to work until we’re 107 because we will have spent our retirement fund on trotting the globe. Which will be worth every penny, absolutely.

*Now 2% more exciting than an afternoon nap!

Bethany's final resting place

(Did I say “peeking into stone coffins?” Because I meant “inhabiting.”)

16Jan

The Grandmotherland

Italy is a lot like the ideal grandmother. It possesses an old, wrinkly kind of beauty that perfectly complements antique jewelry. It is lively and friendly and bursting with conversation topics. The stories it tells inspire generations. And oh, it can cook. Not only can it boast the best food this side of Jupiter, it knows a thing or two about making people feel good about eating. Case in point: Calories are labeled as “energy.” And sugar packets are “important in the daily nourishment to maintain and restore the energy of the mind and of the body.” (Why, I’m a firm believer in energy maintenance and eating sugar by the spoonful! What are the odds?)

Unfortunately, Italy has a creepy side as well, an innocent-looking grandmother who reads her grandchildren’s diaries on the sly. Example? I’ve ordered deli meat exactly twice at our neighborhood grocery store. Thus, I was slightly surprised to hear that the deli worker asked one of our friends from church if my husband’s boss would take a look at her knee. How did she know who our friend was? And how did she know who my husband was? And how did she know who Dan worked for? And how did she get a hold of my diary? Dan tells me that when he was growing up here, neighbors would frequently comment on things his family did or talked about inside their own house. The only intelligent response I have to that is ACK! ACK! Also, oh my ACK!

So the lack of privacy takes some getting used to (my chestal region has already figured that out), but there are many other reasons to love Italy. For example, bonsai trees are readily available at local supermarkets. Conservative old ladies wear bikinis and brew limoncello in their living rooms. People can get downtown via underground escalators through a 500-year-old castle. Public preschool starts at age three, with half-day and full-day options for the same price of nothing. And speaking of nothing, that’s what it costs to visit the doctor, stay in the hospital, and get prescription medicine. Italians know that regular vacations are as necessary as life, breath, and daily naptime. Speed limits are refreshingly high. And possibly the best thing, Italian roosters say “Chicchirichì!” (Pronounced like “KEE-kee-ree-KEE.” Try it! Your head might just explode from the extreme fun of crowing in Italian!)

I can’t believe we’ve already lived here for half a year. This adopted country of ours feels simultaneously new and old, invigorating and relaxing, different and familiar. Any other dichotomous comparisons? Oh yes, friendly spaghetti-cooking grandmother and creepy diary-stalking grandmother. But I’m coming to terms with the new and the invigorating and the different and the creepy, and you can probably tell by now that if given the choice to relive this adventure, I would say “Hell, yeah!” (Also, “ACK!”)

13Jan

Mastercard’s Got Nothin’ On Us

We sit nose-to-nose in the tiny stone room that some say is the highest point in the city. We share a completely fantastic pizza made from ingredients that should never be put on pizza, like salad. (Daring, no?) We drink imported beer out of thick glass goblets–wine glasses on testosterone, basically–and laugh. We talk about the past and the future and mostly all the bits in between, and when dessert comes, we shut up. (Chocolate soufflé. You understand.) We wind our way through the cobblestone maze of Centro in the rain, holding hands and flirting shamelessly, and when we find ourselves back home, we smile.

This is date night, post-children edition. It is exactly like fine wine–rare and luxuriant, complex and lingering, inhibition-loosening and too expensive to indulge often. Yet as most indulgences are, date night is worth every penny… and then some. (Babysitter: €25.50. Dinner: €40. Half a liter of gasoline: €580.18. A whole evening to feel sexy and pretend to discuss things in an intelligent manner and remember why we like us: Priceless.)

Dating before kids was fun too, though usually less… sophisticated. We used to go to the wondrously horrifying dollar theater about once a week to watch movies we only cared $1 about and contract interesting diseases through the ripped plush upholstery. Afterward, we’d make out in the parking lot and grin when passers-by yelled at us to get a room, because hey, we’re married, even though we don’t look married because married people don’t make out in parking lots, and we already have a room, and ha!

Now that we’re parents two times around and legally Responsible Adults (to elaborate on a previous point, ha!), we tend to do more date-ish things on our evenings out. Dress up, eat at restaurants with real tablecloths, that sort of thing. But we still make out in the parking lot afterward, and I’m reminded every time why I wouldn’t trade our relationship–with its sparks and sand pits, its whimsicality and profundity, its ins and outs and especially the whirling in-betweens–for anything in the world.

4Jan

Serenity

The new year is already up and running, but I’m wandering somewhere on the other side of the line with untied laces, trying first not to choke on the dust, second to figure out how the hell to catch up, and third to find serenity in the midst of personal chaos. That’s my wish-on-a-star for this year–serenity. It was conspicuously absent last year, and I’m suddenly feeling desperate.

Don’t get me wrong–last year was fun… in the way that hurricanes and tornados and seizures are fun. It was like a twelve-month play date with a schizophrenic giant. Dan got his master’s, we were unemployed, we were homeless, we moved three times, we shipped our possessions and selves overseas without any guarantees, we started a new life in Italy, we had a baby, and our two-year-old inexplicably turned thirteen–each a circumstance saturated with stress. 2007 should have come with a label: “SURGEON GENERAL’S WARNING: This year may be hazardous to your health; proceed at your own risk.”

I’m wildly glad we took so many risks to chase our huge dreams, not letting practicality or security tie us down. I also know that one day, I will realize how truly incredible the payoff is. But for now, I’m spent, running on a backup generator. This holiday break has been rather disastrous, with all four of us contracting bronchitis, influenza, or a hairy scary combination of the two, and I haven’t found the space to recharge. Thus, I find myself entering 2008 with my sanity tied in knots and my view of the future splattered with calamities.

If I still believed in the power of resolutions–or at least in my own power to keep them–I would make several:

To have fun with my girls every day.
To try cooking a gourmet recipe every week.
To learn Italian fluently.
To get in shape.
To reach out to new acquaintances without fear.
To rediscover God.
To make friends with new books and rekindle my friendships with old.
To write, constantly, with all the beauty and honesty and creativity I have to offer.

But I would give up these hopes, these efforts, this carousel of trying and failing and trying again if only to have a year drenched in serenity. Then, I think I could finally find the craziness to be me.

5Dec

Too Sexy For My Boots

There are two requirements for being a woman in Italy:
1. Legal documents
2. Sexy boots
(Not necessarily in order of importance)

I’ve been learning that a lot of my American fashion prejudices don’t apply in Europe. For instance, that nice lady at church who I thought might be a hooker… isn’t. (Note to self: Woman standing on street corner at night wearing boots and half a napkin = hooker. Woman praying at church wearing boots plus clothing = not a hooker.) I can’t help it; in my American experience, most gals coordinating their designer heels with their designer eye shadow were trying to be either Hilary Clinton or Jessica Simpson. ::Shudder x2:: Here, however, women dress up simply because they want to look nice. And they all wear sexy boots.

You know the boots–the ones that say “My calves are so sexy I have to wrap them in black leather, and my heels are so sexy they need their own four-inch pedestals, and my toes are so sexy that they are the exact shape of a pie-server, no really.” My shoe wardrobe does not say such things. My shoes say “Yo, I can skate,” even though I can’t. But here I find myself, a woman. In Italy. And there are requirements…

So I now have my own pair of authentically sexy boots (as authenticated by my husband and my own personal feelings of oo-la-la), and there are some things you should know. First, remember that song, “These boots were made for walking”? It refers to combat boots or rain boots or any kind other than sexy boots, which are specially designed for tripping. However, all pain, inability to walk, potential crippling, etc. are entirely irrelevant in the face of such podiatric cuteness. (Just like Barbie doll feet! Except so much cuter because they’re mine!) Finally, sexy boots necessitate sexy eyebrows. But that’s a different story for a different day…

4Dec

The Death of a Boobyphobe

Though people who met me as a college freshman might disagree, I am generally shy. I’m that girl you see melting into her soup rather than speaking up at dinner parties and crying when someone at the beach has the audacity to glimpse her in her swimsuit. I’m also a boobyphobe, which happens to be the topic at hand.

Flashback to the unspeakable horrors of puberty. On second thought, let me just repress all that for you. We’ll start instead with the slightly-more-speakable horrors of my first Super Ultra Mega Top Secret Boyfriend (Now with plausible deniability! Warranty not included!). We were sitting in his truck exploring the enticing gray area beyond homeschool courtship standards, and he asked me in a voice like fornication itself what I was wearing under my tank top. Now the dilemma. I could not possibly utter the word “bra” (this scandalous term was replaced by “shoelaces” in my house, no kidding), but the alternative was saying–and thus implying–nothing. Obviously, the only dignified solution was to let him find out for himself.

Flashforward to now. Though I have had many years to get comfortable with my own bosom, I would still rather people think I cruelly starve my infant than know that I breastfeed her. But did I mention that I now live in a land of topless beaches, billboards, and book covers? A land where TV hostesses only wear strategic bits of fringe? A land where crowds of women fight to try on bras in the outdoor market? So I should not have been surprised when the following conversation happened amongst a group of ladies at church last week:

Lady #1, pointing to the innocent, unbreastly bottle I’m using to feed Sophie: “You don’t breastfeed your baby?”
Me, wishing I could be untruthful in church without crashing through a trapdoor to hell: “Um, this is my milk.”
Lady #1: “It’s your milk?”
Me: “Yes.”
Lady #1 to Ladies #2, 3, 4, 5, & 6: “It’s her milk.”
Lady #2 to Ladies #3, 4, 5, & 6: “It’s her milk.”
Lady #3: “It’s your milk?”
Lady #2: “Of course it’s her milk! Look at her!”
Lady #4: “With those breasts, how could she not have milk?”
Lady #5, incredulously, as though I have sporting goods stuck up my shirt: “You have very large breasts.”
Lady #6, gesturing with both hands: “Very large breasts.”
Lady #4: “See, how could she not have milk?”
Lady #1, showing bottle to uninvolved passerby: “That’s her milk. From her very large breasts.”

You may be asking yourself if there is a universal lesson to be learned from this story, and lucky you, there is: Don’t teach your children that bras are called shoelaces, or they will end up standing buxomly in an Italian church debating whether to just die right there or wait till they get home.

16Oct

Marshmalliracles

I feel like I’m holding miracles–this thin sheet of paper with smudgy blue stamps that says I’m a legal resident, this printed green postcard that says I have health coverage. I can’t help feeling like somebody else’s name should be written across the top or that some saw-toothed disclaimer is waiting to jump out and bite me. My ability to relax is wobbly from months of disuse.

But, as reluctant as I am to believe, everything is OK now. I can breathe deeply without fear of triggering uninsured contractions. I can stop plugging each moment of my daughter’s upcoming birth into a mental cash register. I can read Baby, Come Out! to Natalie with the kind of giddy excitement our littlest girl should be greeted with.

::Relaxation (which sounds exactly like the marshmallowy steam swirling up from a mug of hot chocolate)::

© Copyright 2019, all rights reserved.
Site powered by Training Lot.